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Whenever compiling a list of London’s finest restaurants, one might foresee renowned award-winning venues. However, situated near the top among these gastronomic giants is a unpretentious salonu located in a distant area of north London.

A Shocking Honour

The compact Turkish spot, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the fourth best restaurant in the metropolis by a influential gastronomic guide. This honour has made the owners utterly astonished.

“I am completely shocked,” remarks a family member, pointing to his parents’ relentless work that culminated in their humble restaurant achieving such a prominent ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Modesty

The small shop, which used to be a basic cafe before its change into a popular food hotspot, has kept much of its former character. It seats just more than 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking display, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate spot,” says the owner.

The Signature Creation: Tantuni

However, it is focused on the cuisine, and this establishment definitely excels. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a succulent consistency.

It is then thrown into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. When the flavourful mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to absorb all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the savoury meat is rolled neatly inside.

The wrap is typically enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a mighty punch of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The prominent food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the eatery’s künefe proves a treat. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, giving it a deeper, more aromatic and more balanced profile.

Surpassing the Giants

Notably, this unassuming restaurant has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place stuffed for below £25, equivalent experiences at top-tier establishments can start at significantly more than that price.

The Ethos of Hospitality

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well beyond the city’s central zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an costly city. There is an belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I do not believe in that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is most important is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The sentiment is shared by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he were in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London come to this restaurant as a finishing school, to teach them the dangers of overthinking, and to reveal what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

The Journey of Dedication

Unlike many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food did not work at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I feel very happy of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to find their footing, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum would be really tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a life outside work but her friends would visit to help her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. All of these roles made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

An Achievement for the Culture

This restaurant’s accolade is likely to resonate beyond its own doors. “In my opinion a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the broader meaning of this culinary achievement.